In a Dutch travel magazine, Op Pad nr 7-2012, we read about a three day hike on peninsula Cap de Creus. A mix of beautiful nature and culture, this is a route to remember. We’re near the place, so we buy a hiking map and go to do this hike. The route as described in Op Pad is not a round, if we follow it we won’t get back to our starting point. We do want to get back to the starting point, so we adapt the route a bit: First two days we’ll be hiking along the shore like the original hike does. The third day we’ll cross the peninsula to get back to the starting point. After some calculations of distance and elevations we think this is a nice alternative.
We prepare from a campsite near the shore of Roses. The campsite is mostly in use by swimming youth or petanque playing elders. It’s nice, quiet and full of shade. We leave our car at the campsite and go to Roses’s boulevard. It’s not the thing we usually do, wander over the boulevard, but soon we can leave Roses behind and walk over a footpath near the shore. The temperature is good, because of the cooling effect of the wind and the shade of the trees. We follow the GR92 and we walk along a lot of small bays. Some bays can be visited from a nearby road, which can be seen at once: Hotels have been built there or a campsite and it’s possible to make a speedboat tour. Many other bays can only be reached on foot (which is not so far from the road actually). Only few people take the effort to walk to those beaches.
At Cala Pelosa we leave the coast to walk inland to Cadaqués. We see a gecko who is sunbathing on a pole! At Platja de Jóncols we speed up to escape a beach tent full of elderly who are drunk.
Cadaqués is known because Salvador Dalí, the artist, had a house there. His house has been converted into a museum. It’s much more touristic than we’d thought and we spent a restless night on the campsite: after dinner some guests arrive who keep on talking very loud until the middle of the night. When they finally are done talking, the local alley cats start fighting. Yet we decide to get up early, so we can walk in the coolness of the morning.
Via footpaths, roads and the Cami Antic we go on our way to the lighthouse of Cap de Creus. Just before the lighthouse we switch to the GR11 and follow it to the west. Today is a hotter day than yesterday: a lot less trees and almost no wind.
After Sint Baldiri we zigzag to the valley, to camping Port de la Selva.
After a good night rest we can leave for the last stretch. We leave the route as described in Op Pad and search for GR92. Slowly we ascend into the inland until Coll de sa Perafita. Watch out near hotel “se Perafita”! Two ascending paths start at the hotel and both are marked by a yellow line. Follow the right path. We took the left path and after quite some time we discovered it was the wrong one. We saw yellow marks, unfortunately that doesn’t confirm you’re following the yellow route. We follow the correct yellow marks until Mas Romanyac, where two farmers are driving cattle. Via Mas dela Arbres, Pla d’en Caussa, Puig de la Sardina and other mountain tops we descend to Roses.
During this hike we’ve spend the night at campsites and ate in the villages. Different than usual, where we bivouac near the route. In June it’s not possible in Cap de Creus, all creeks and watersources we saw on our map were dry. The only way to get fresh drinking water is in the villages. The route is very beautiful and divers. Each day you’ll be walking through a different landscape: the coast, sloping inland and finally a hilly way back to Roses. Especially the second day there are only a few trees, that provide the necessary shade during noon. In June it’s not so crowded, but the temperature is rising to a high level already.
Op Pad magazine
Jaargang 2012, uitgave 7
Artikel door Nienke Koning en Ernst Kremers
Geo/Estel Mapa Excursionista E-25, 1 : 25 000, Cap de Creus Parc Natural